They recently replaced the timing chain under the pre-owned warranty. If it isn't printed on the oil cap, check your owners manual for the exact type before adding new oil. If they went by what every jerk on the street said they'd be giving out new engines left and right. I can say the chances of it being the turbo blowing oil by is high. They recently replaced the timing chain under the pre-owned warranty. They should have swapped it. I told them to look again, harder, this time.
Does your turbo not cool well enough while idling and it just starts burning it like crazy? Hung up, and we left. They've actually been pretty friendly over the past few times -- never outrageous or rude. For most Mazdas, you can wrap an old belt around the oil filter and unscrew it by hand. Yeah well if there wouldn't be an offering to the burnt oil gods under my hood somewhere it wouldn't have gotten low in the first place. Ours was coated in tar. Synthetics like Mobil1 actually perform pretty poorly compared to Rotella T6, Amsoil, and Pennzoil Platinum.
I mean, if it's burning that much oil, what else could it be non-compression related if the Turbo seals were just done 3. Go let it idle out front for 25 minutes, and look for a steam engine plume to come pouring out the exhaust. I feel like I read one of your posts saying that the turbo turned molten in color???! Thats what did ours in. Why did you make the comment about not deviating and putting in 0W-30 vs 5W-30. So I will play the game and do that even though I measured this amount already. How many miles do you have? And for the record, never did the oil get below the low mark on the dipstick -- any quantities listed here are cumulative adds over the course of the oil change interval.
Thanks for the response Raider. The primary issue is dilution of viscosity modifiers due to fuel contamination. Came back after 20 minutes of idling. You never know what could be dripping down from the engine, battery acid, engine coolant, brake fluid, etc. I mentioned in one of my above posts that the turbo seals were redone last oil change --and we were hoping that would solve it, but probably didn't. Acknowledging that they have to have a troubleshooting procedure, at this point I give them the benefit of the doubt this last time because they themselves have not accurately measured the consumption even though we've made it a point heck, they alerted us to it that it's been pounding oil over the last 15k miles.
Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of the tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not World Mechanics. Got to the end of the row and stopped. Taking the primary Oxygen sensor out for inspection is also on the list of things to do. Just a side note, they did just redo all the seals in the turbo last time in roughly 4k miles ago now. And yeah, it was a pumpkin. So say compression comes back bad, what are we looking at, an engine overhaul? Wasn't a problem till recently, either, which alerts me to some 'event' happening.
Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of the tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Auto Repair Guys. Brian Some is normal, but mazda will give you a rediculous number like more than a qt per 1000 is still ok. Wife and I idled for 20 minutes in front of a store while she was on a call. Just had the turbo seals and timing chain done last time in the shop 3500 miles ago Thanks in advance! My car has been tuned to my K04 and fuel limits for years and it's heavily abused daily. Just didn't know if it was a known thing with this engine. There are a couple other dealers around, but this one is by far the most convenient. I can't recall what was on the invoice at the moment.
I think that oil breakdown could be more of an issue with 0w but is there something else? No oil spots in the garage so we're most likely burning it. Just had the turbo seals and timing chain done last time in the shop 3500 miles ago Thanks in advance! They didn't find any leaky spots in their initial look. They explained that the max consumption threshold for action is 1qt per 1500 miles. As long as you change your oil regularly you should be fine, just stick to synthetics. We demonstrated on a 2009 with the 2. Alive is one of the best live albums of all time.
As for leaking lol, I explained to them there's no way 2qts could disappear via an unnoticeable leak; no spots on the garage floor, no spots on the surrounding engine components. The first number is its relative weight at cold so in theory, the oil flows better while cold. All and all, you're right, an easy, low investment test. Information given in this video does not guarantee the desired outcome. So, if you are in a cold environment, 0w-30 would help get oil through the engine on cold start ups, likely would make minimal benifit in the summer.