Did you see my back probe explanation with T pins? Or you may just be struggling to keep it highway-approved. Tonight, I can put a voltmeter on there and see what kind of voltage I get. The computer sends 5V, it passes through resistance and get's measured at less volts. Thank you for your input on the 3. I'd leave all the ground and shield and old wire in place and only disconnect the ends of the center wire to put in your replacement wire hopefully that makes sense. It's worse in hot ambient temperatures too.
I'm presuming that you sprung for the 'Torque' Pro version?? I mean a switch from cold start operation to normal temp operation? I'd check for resistance across the engine harness wire. Nevertheless, access is limited in this location. So my thinking was that perhaps the harness has a short in it and that is 'sucking' power out of the path to the knock sensor. . The green light cleared for emissions testing!! Nowhere does it tell me to test for 5v there or 2-3v elsewhere.
Just now getting ready to replace the sensors as I need to go in anyway to take care of an injector problem. Take off the knock sensor. I'm thinking about doing a Amazon return but is the effort worth it?? I mean a switch from cold start operation to normal temp operation? One of the things that shock me is the far-reaching number of automobiles affected by this Nissan knock sensor code. Your sensor test in ohms was good so that leads back to actual knock. The electronics in the knock sensor or connector can fail over time due to general wear, heat, or corrosion.
Just the core wire, not the ground and stuff unless you go the shielded route. It can be accessed from under the vehicle. Then it talks about testing continuity from ecu to sub harness, then sub to knock. I will say, I appreciate your putting such effort into your posts. I'm familiar with the typical 5v sub-systems. How can I reach the knock sensor? But, I'm thinking this might not be the case. I'm pretty sure this is the resistor you need to use.
. This same method of checking is also shown in the video I'm going to address below. The Torque app is awesome in general though. I'm glad you passed Smog. So if your motor is knocking and the sensor is only doing it's job then you could possibly damage your motor if detonation becomes severe enough. It nearly passed itself, then it forgot and failed itself.
Did this have anything to do with warm up? The computer sends 5V, it passes through resistance and get's measured at less volts. Testing ohms across your harness could be a clue and can't hurt. Another thing I was eluding to, but not writing, is that your actual harness may need repair. The code stands for knock sensor bank one sensor one circuit input high. I wonder if you posted while I was typing and me vice versa. Then driving a bit and watching the code go away. Problem stalling and not starting was not the sensor.
If you are under the vehicle looking at the oil filter, it is up and to the left of the oil filter. Intermotor® is the import leader by design. Thank you very much for all the info you have shared. Remove the oil filter for ease of movement then use an open-end wrench with a long handle to take off the bolt and unplug it. Shop online, find the best price on the right product, and have it shipped right to your door.
I had ask the salesman at the Autozone if I could ohm out the 'Duralast' knock sensor before I bought so I decided to go up there and at least check it out even though I didn't need it. Haven't done the repair yet. The shielding should be essentially grounded at each end. I've had the knock sensor off and inspected it and did a ohm's test on it which spec'ed out o. With the key on, engine off you can back probe the eight pin connector on the passenger side valve cover of a V-6 engine and find a reference voltage in the 4 V range. I would put the key into the on position and not start the car.
I was hoping to post a happy ending response. Hopefully it will still be registering green and they deem it 'good to go'!!! Testing the Knock Sensor before Replacing It Maybe it's not a failed knock sensor? It resets codes as well. Advance Auto Parts has 11 different Knock Sensor for your vehicle, ready for shipping or in-store pick up. A 32 valve engine is marginal on torque until 2,500-3,000 rpm why downshifts occur. Then, I would test for voltage between the one wire using the pin back-probe method and a good ground on your chassis. Tighten the bolt with a socket and ratchet, then install the electrical connector on the sensor.
The Nissan Pathfinder and the Maxima are two automobiles that fit into this category. Then I would possibly know if the 3. So my thinking was that perhaps the harness has a short in it and that is 'sucking' power out of the path to the knock sensor. There is a metal plate with two screws. However, he rset and suggested that I run my car a few more days and see what is happening.