Pink was on C, yellow and light green were on F and G. Sudden grinding noise with no prior warning primarily in 2nd gear, behavior in reverse may be abnormal: sunshell is fractured. Somehow, it can shift your car from gear to gear, knowing how fast you need to go and how quickly you need to get there. More than likely the transmission will need an overhaul. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. In 2003 when it had 22,xxx miles on it I had the transmission worked on because it was shuttering and shifting hard.
The important thing is checking any other possible causes to your problem before you take the transmission apart, which is very expensive. The transmission is a closed system, so there are only a few places that can spring a leak first check you didn't incorrectly. At first I thought maybe the spark plugs were bad but had them checked and are fine. You may not be able to save big money by doing your own transmission rebuild, but keeping up with your will keep you out of the shop as much as possible. Seal restorer may fix last problem, but probably remove and rebuild needed. From bells to valve bodies, added solenoids, changes in pump and convertors.
The assumption I am making is that it is the Torque converter unlocking, and not the transmission slipping. It's no rocket science with the directions. Also, if the accumulator housing walls are scored, the housing must be replaced. Or an ignition switch issue? Thanks Please or to join the conversation. Unless your thirst for automotive knowledge borders on compulsive, you can leave it a mystery. This could be all kinds of item but those are the most suspect.
A lot of the time, many transmission problems, including noise and shifting issues, can be solved by simply swapping out the worn transmission fluid for a high-quality, synthetic replacement. Simple things I should be looking for? Loud bang, grinding sound, loss of all gears, and a binding driveshaft: Snapped output shaft. Let's turn the page and find out more about the specific symptoms a 4L60-E with internal damage. I just verified again in the Hydromatic book. The truck is ten hours from my home at highway cruise speed, so if I have to drive at 40 kms in second gear, it's going to be a long haul! All i'm trying to do is get my overdrive back and continue my daily driving. Trans seems noisy when moving in 1st and Reverse, noise goes away instantly if you shift to N or the transmission goes into 3rd gear: Reaction planetary is worn out due to high miles or insufficient lubrication.
Now, 6 years later I am having the exact same problem and am told I have to have a whole new transmission installed. The other wires are the actual signal and reference wires. So what do I do next? After realizing where it went I noticed that another bolt was missing!! Also has the Force Shift Motor been looked at? I got the truck cheap, so I guess if I have to put a rebuilt transmission in, it won't be the end of the world. It has caught me by surprise a few times. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt. Oh and make sure you have 4 volts or more at wide open throttle. .
May have to replace converter also if hub is scored. Malfunctioning clutch hydraulic cylinders will not hold adequate pressure, and may leak clutch fluid. I have very little mechanical experience and none with transmissions, so I'm completely baffled by this problem. Transmission problems only worsen with time. Worn synchronizers may lead to harsh shifts or gear grinding.
Finally, take a look at the bore in which the piston rides in. Line pressure is only a part of the diagnostic process. I have not found any other bolts missing or loose but it is difficult to see their locations. My main issue is that when the transmission fuse is pulled, the wire from the ignition switch provides sufficient voltage 12-14. Most cars come with red transmission fluid, good to know if you are looking for a leak.
Remember to disconnect all voltage from the system to do a resistance test. Or is it possible that my problem is caused by something else? I was told it was the torque converter, and you can tell that by pressing the brake when it jumps, that send a signal to the computer to disengage the torque converter. I will mention it to dealer on my next visit as I thought this was a normal thing for big car. It had a code of 1810 when diagnostics was done to it. This sensor was added at around the 1995 mark so you might not have it. Once I did that now it shifts like a new truck. Car can safely be driven gently in forward gears until the repair.
The majority of threads I've read seem to indicate that as long as the transmission will shift into reverse etc, it's probably not a rebuild item? I stop the car, turn the motor off, then on and its ok again for a few more miles. In my opinion I think your Ignition switch is ok if you have B+ voltage to the Trans fuse. So I tested both ways. You want to make sure it is not broken. I'll update this thread when it gets fixed so you know what the fix was.