Like one of the previous posts mentioned, I would also poor a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank. These work fine with a good spray pattern but are slightly more prone to deposits plugging the holes. About 20 psi or so. I have taken the pressure regulator off and attached a hand vacuum pump and it holds steady at 40psi. The D-Jet type will fit most types but is not waterproof. I don't mind spending money on the system to get it going again, but dollars are tight and I don't want to keep playing this game of replacing everything and hope I got the bad part in the process. I am feeling completely defeated on this thing.
While it will most likely occur while idling, it is not unheard of for the car to stall while you are driving down the road. They were replaced about 3 months ago. I think that is the smart way to go. Since the only two components up stream of the high pressure pump are the switch and the pump, how can I eliminate one or the other? When I floor it, she does move. Pump was making bearing noises with erratic fluctuations in pressure - sounded like it was on a failure path.
With the gas cap removed and engine running, listen to the pump at the fuel filler inlet where the gas cap is. It's really cold out and I was trying to avoid getting under the truck! What type of milage is on the vehicle? I have a 94 that should be about the same though mine has the 5 speed. Don't try this though unless you have a good set of insulated plug pliers to use you get nailed. When driving from a cold start, the engine pops a few times as I am giving it gas and the truck doesn't respond well at all to the pedal. Use the proper flow rate for the intended application. They were replaced about 3 months ago. It's really cold out but I guess next is to inspect the O2 sensor and wire harness to make sure nothing melted or anything.
The shuttle valve is the critical device for a two tank application If you have any doubts, pull yours and take it with you. The sound of an electric fuel pump is a pretty good indicator of its condition. No apparent kinks or restrictions in the fuel lines, new fuel filter, new h. Pump so I can hear and I do hear the pump in the tank whirring. Repeat several key turns and note pressure.
This slower time can somewhat decrease the usable operating range of the injector energized by this driver. A dying vehicle, when it feels like it's run out of gas, is usually a fuel related issue. This is substantial current flow and a Saturated Injector cannot handle it. The best way to determine impedance is to put a digital ohmmeter across the two electrical connections and see what it reads. A tapered needle sits on a tapered seat. The later type uses a rigid fuel rail to hold the injectors down to the manifold as well as seal to the O-rings.
Yeah Im kinda too nervous about pulling plug wires while its running, I know it hurts like heck if it shocks ya. . The truck does not smoke. These are very inexpensive, simple, and reliable. Electrical Connections L-jet connector left, D-Jet right For the majority of injectors, there are two types of electrical connections. Do you think Id be jumping the gun to just go ahead and replace both pumps since one is known bad? Fuel filter is downstream of the h.
These have excellent atomization and a wide spray pattern but are also prone to partial plugging by varnish deposits. No way to know until you do the compression test first if cylinders are within 10 to 20 pounds of each other should run good or else you would have to pull it apart. Newer vehicles usually have them inside the tank for a couple of different reasons. Check engine light does comes on. Also that appears to be just a pump.
If the surge is sharp and abrupt look towards an ignition problem. I guess it may be time to pull the bed and replace both the pumps while I have the help of pulling the bed. Otherwise, diagnosing the fuel pump may be misleading. Seems like a fuel volume issue. Guage reads 45 -60 psi when first started, then as engine runs pressure gets lower until engine stalls from lack of pressure. This means that the current flow in the driver and injector circuit stays low keeping the components nice and cool for long life. Mind you, I had cleaned it pretty well only days before.
Did you check for codes? However, other common causes could be a dirty throttle body or a bad alternator. That's too low and the fact that it doesn't change with the vacuum line removed points to a problem. It has 32psi at the rail when I start it, but it soon drops, causing the truck to sputter when you try to accellerate. Nudge me in the right direction before I give up for the weekend and go have some beers? Another bit of info is that when I open the throttle all the way up from idle goosing it it sounds like it chokes for a second then revs up. These are not compatible with other types. Does this happen on both tanks? There is no need for it on my truck at all. The E303 cam in my opinion is not so good for everyday local driving.
When it is needed, it should be done immediately to prevent any injury or damage, as leaking fuel is never a good thing. Save yourself some money and learn to diagnose your own non-starting Ford. Fuel pressure must be 55-60-psi with engine running at idle. The major reason is that it allows the gas tank to run closer to empty without damaging the fuel pump; in case of a pump failure, the gas leak is contained in the tank. If the regulator has failed completely, the vehicle will crank, but not start at all. Think you led to the conclusion that the injectors are not leaking and are working correctly.