Turn on the ignition, and put heat control to full heat. Repeat steps 10 through 12. These are single use stretch bolts so chuck them in the bin but keep the washers. My photo only shows one washer : Remove valve cover. Note the units are in inch-pounds. However, it appears to be turned off in your browser.
In short order you should start to feel heat coming from the vents, even if it's 80+ degrees outside. First, remove the auxiliary drive belt by inserting a large hex key into the tensioner pulley and turn clockwise I believe to release tension from the aux belt. I must have spent an hour trying to do there two steps. If your head does not need skimming, clean it up and skip this guide to reassembly. Slide in the crank lock pin and camshaft locking tool. And the repair would be likewise, but I wouldn't know the specific details such as part no's. Once tension is reduced, remove the belt.
You may notice the level rise and fall in the tank and some bubbles exit the bleeder screw when you do this. To remove, either use earless hose clamp pliers, or you may be able to pry them off using needle nose pliers and a flat head screwdriver. Well, okay, you'll be done after you wash down the garage floor or driveway of all the spilled coolant, remove the sticky grime that gets on your tools and hands, and have properly disposed of the old coolant. At some point the world sh! I must admit this thing intimidated me at first, but so far so good. Electrolysis No coolant change article would be complete without at least a brief discussion on electrolysis, its causes and effects. There are 6 plugs that have to be released before the whole assembly can be freed. Allow block to drain fully.
Typically you can do it but using a 32mm open ended wrench, and hitting the top of the wrench in clockwise direction to shock the nut off. Essentially you want to remove the chain from the sprockets, but you want to keep the chain under tensions. Remove the bleed screw completely. Here you can also see another view of the mounting nut. Source: , I used the Bently manual and pretty much followed its instructions. Place the new sensor in an easy and quick to reach location. If it only happens when the car is cold, it would seem to indicate that the problem arises as the pressure in the system builds.
This is thin enough to make it past the manifold elbows. Dang dealer parts desks around here are not open on Saturdays or Sundays, and I needed the car back on the road. If you followed the guide and took your time, it should start up first time and within seconds run nice and smooth. Undo by lifting metal clip up and pulling end off: Remove the top rad hose expansion tank overflow hose connector: Underneath expansion tank undo coolant level sensor connector: Unclip washer fluid filling point from expansion tank by lifting up: Expansion tank removed: If you look down the exhaust side of the engine block, you should be able to see the engine coolant drain plug. Also shown is the original plug and 13mm box wrench I used to remove it. As you attempt to maintain the level at the top of the collar, squeeze and release the upper radiator hose several times. Engine coolant serves many purposes.
This is one messy job! Thus, changing one's engine coolant is just as important as changing the driveline oils. Now is the time to go in the boot and remove the negative battery lead. Thanks for the detailed directions and advice on what to do. Now remove the 6 hose clamps from the throttle bodies. I could not get a good picture, but this will all be pretty obvious once you get on your back under the car. This is a good time to use a telescopic mirror.
The engine coolant drain plug is located on the passenger side of the engine block just in front of the exhaust manifold. While this is decidedly less than the capacity of the system reportedly 2. Just feel around and you will find it. This is often due to setting your browser Security settings too high. There is no need to do this and is of no advantage.
Note the o-ring on each. I am extremely pleased with this order. Be prepared to wipe up any fuel spilled. Its now just a push fit, no more screws. I strongly recommend you apply some tape electrical or duct around the open bung and then tightly wrap some plastic around it so coolant does not flood the exhaust pipe, as I can't see that being good for the catalyst. Its a little tricky to describe but typically I would push the spring wire over the edge of the plug as the connector spring wire is what holds it in place , and then pry off the plug carefully. If I turn the car off and then turn it right back on, the light stays off but after 28-30 seconds it comes back on and stays on.
I bought a little pulley set from Amazon for £10 that can support up to 180kg, and mounted it to a cross beam I installed above the engine bay. Give it another check in a few days. As you remove the screw, take note that there may be a rubber o-ring on it. One gallon of coolant and one gallon of distilled water will completey fill the cooling system. Underneath you can also see the first nut Lift up the scuttle panner side rubber trim and lift up the cable grommets of gain extra movement on the cables: Remove lower tube by pinching sides and pulling down these can be stuck on pretty solid so persist. The whole process took me about 30 seconds then another 3 mins to top off the coolant. My smallest torque wrench only goes down to 4 Nm so I used that with no ill effects.
Several of the primary cooling components are prone to failure within 60k miles or less in many cases. A test for electrolysis requires a voltmeter with a range of 0 to roughly 12 volts and a resolution of 0. Here you can see the fuel line and timing chain little clearer: Here is the head removed from car. A modern, inexpensive digital voltmeter is ideal for this. Carefully lift up the tabs with green arrows to separate.