Our standards, performance scientific analysis and road testing all lead to quality driving solutions. That rear steer power rack allows standard oil pans for this chassis to be used. I would change my shocks and springs long before replacing the entire suspension. On Craigslist theres two people who sell them. The shape of the template is transferred onto the ¼-inch steel and the plasma cutter is used to cut out the boxing plates for the frame. It's also very easy to put bigger 5-lug brakes on them. Hi survivorman, appreciate the look ups.
As a result, the passengers felt most bumps, since road manners were not the primary consideration. With that said, feel free to follow along as the crew from Devious Customs spends a day changing our F-100 for the better. Jakarta's roads are notorious with the potholes, think independent suspensions are more forgiving to my kidney So, comfort is more the objective here. I already decided on doing a ground-scraping four-bar Ride Tech set up out back which will be in an upcoming issue so I can just basically ride my hog right into the bed all by my lonesome. My minister of finance is a great gal, but she has absolutely no appreciation for hot rods and no sense of humor when it comes to paying for them.
Fatman Fabrications has your solution! The I-beams, radius arms, steering box and anything else that isnt going to be used anymore is removed from the front of the truck. The center of the shock towers at their base should be aligned with the axle centerline while they are tilted to the rear for anti-dive during installation, as they should be. And the reason that the gussets have to be cut down is because the front sections of the frame rails have to be boxed. I used a fat man kit for my pickup. Hello Racer Z, you are right on that. However, while the chassis may not be level front to back, the front crossmember should be-by installing it so the lower control arm pivots will be level with the ground. Need to know more if you want to dive into this.
The centers of the upper control arm mounts will be slightly behind the axle centerline. And while there are a lot of different variations of aftermarket independent front suspension to choose from Camaro, Volarie, etc. At this point, the radius arm crossmember is cut out completely. The shipping would be about the same since its more about weight then size. Modern wider wheels and tires can run out of tire-to-fender clearance. Since there arent radius arms on the truck any longer, there is no need to keep the crossmember so it is trashed.
We also upgraded to a set of trick billet hubs and disc brakes from our friends at Engineered Components Inc. Hello Racer Z, you are right on that. Most trucks are going to have a nose-down attitude and the Fatman kits are designed for chassis with a 2- to 3- degree rake so it should be mocked up that way during installation. When the stock suspension was finally on its last legs, I had some decision making to do. Then if you want to run air bags it opens up a completely different can of worms. This is to show where the center of the factory front suspension is and will work as a reference for installing the new crossmember. Before any cutting is started, the front axle centerline is marked on the frame.
Using progressive springs on all four corners with decent shocks would make it a smoother riding truck and still be able to carry a load. They're affordable, easy to install, and they work extremely well. We have front suspension kits with options from standard springs, coilovers, or Air Ride. I am sure they could partially disassemble to ship. Since the front suspension is going to be setup to run air bags, the front shocks have to be moved to a position behind the front suspension. There is also the issue with tire-to-fender clearance.
Everything was okay, except the cheap bearings and seals they send along -- I thought the balance of the parts were decent -- Drives nice, fit good, no big problems If you have a Tech question, they are real dix - All crossmembers install about the same, measure, measure. The earlier lincoln clips work better for 57-64 ford trucks because the steering gear is behind the wheel centerline so you can keep the same column angle. New from — the Ford Strut Independent Front Suspension conversion. Brent and an older brother restored a 1930 Model A pick up as a high school car and even took their Driver's Test in that car. For durability on rough roads it can't be beat. Look like quite a daunting task for a novice like me to do.
Here are some answers to some of the questions that came up. Stamped control arms or tubular? On Craigslist theres two people who sell them. It all starts with putting the front of the truck up on jackstands and the removal of the factory front suspension. Then the plasma cutter is brought out to cut the crossmember out from between the frame rails. After the crossmember drops out, the gussets that are inside the frame rails have to be cut down so that they dont stick out any further than the top of the frame rail. Plus not to mention, I used factory Ford engine mounts for a 460, 390, 351C, 302. They are available in standard and ultra-low versions with either coilovers or air bags.
They are a buisness so selling you stuff is what they do. The hats have a hole in the center of the coil cup that traditionally serves as the upper shock mount and these holes have to be a certain distance apart according to the instructions. We can't count the variations of radius arm relocation modifications and steering setups that weve seen over the years on Rangers and F-150s that have been lowered more than four-inches. I'm leaning toward the tubular A-arms and coils or coil overs. I did try searching this topic before I posted but I really couldn't find anything that specifically addressed what I'm asking. Then whats left of the spring cups just falls off on the floor.
Summit also has leaf springs for lowering and raising, but no stock height leafs. Granted, having the truck taken apart prior to the suspension really helped speed up the process. I may not buy from Summit, but I will use progressive springs when I get to that section of my truck. This is a stock height progressive rate variable rate spring to fit my 70 F250. The geometry Ford designed is pretty much all that's left. Since the upper shock mount wont ever be used to mount a shock, it is drilled out and a plastic sleeve is inserted into the large hole to protect the airline that will soon be running through it. Summit Racing also has lowering springs as well as raising springs.