I want to budget this out before I get serious so I need a one stop list of info which is here but I'm exhausted, also I'm curious if more information regarding the swap has come to light since this was last posted in. At the time, a Touring Car cylinder head was more expensive than those used in Formula One. They were designed with the intent of being as compact as possible for short-hood applications. I'm sure pnpms2 has its own needs for wiring in the fp but I'm curious how you did it because I never see any forums about it this has all been super helpful, iam mid swap but will complete soon but I have a question concerning the fuel pump in this swap. Not many opportunities to drive it this summer, it has been very wet. I also implied that I was planning to do an engine swap, rather than replace or rebuild the factory motor. Id rather save the money to have to build up the four and have a lightly boosted K motor.
The rear bank of cylinders had to be tilted through four degrees to make it fit. This has been dyno proven. Without writing a novel or being there, this is the best I can really help and describe how to do this. It's always easier the second time lol. I want to complete this swap and go on with normal maintenance as though it were a stock car.
Widely regarded as the fastest Super Tourers ever built. To get the tach to work this is the only option so far that has worked: Or else install an aftermarket tach. Okay, I will try and address some of the questions here. Should bolt up no problem, though i'd look into getting a stronger transmission. Their popularity in the Honda scene has also made them expensive.
Change the oil with some cheap oit and then flush after the first 200-300km just to rinse out the bottom of the oil pan. I have one of the original 3rd gens. So, reading this thread I've seen that I'll need the motor obviously a trans from a compatible car, a wiring harness, and. Click image for a larger view. Available with comprehensive spare package and set-up info for British circuits, including spare engines, gearbox, ratios, suspension, wheels etc. That is an impressive gain over the competition with plenty of room for more power now, or later, no matter what your long term goals are. You may want a new clutch.
Is there enough room to turbo the K in my P5. This motor was capable of producing 199 hp 149 kW and 165 lb-ft 224 Nm from the factory. Look up on probetalk how to tell the difference between the engines. The combo was good enough to send the little sedan down the quarter-mile in 12. Make sure to switch over your original distributor and throttle body too, very important.
The oil primer pump is installed and works perfectly. Or, you can use a hybrid setup like I did for some time. Apparently they Note the drive shaft through the V of the engine. The low pressure switch prevents compressor damage from too low levels of refrigerant. I think for reference purposes having this thread will help future swappers or for reference for those already swapped or interested in what a protege can become.
It featured solid lifters, a cast crankshaft to reduce rotating mass and a reworked intake system. The manufacturer quoted 300 bhp, but Wilcock admits that the true output was 315 bhp, with 221 lb-ft of torque. Other than that it is a fairly easy repair. All this was topped off with Bosch 250 cc injectors and Hayabusa individual throttle bodies. This worked, but I had one rubber line rub constantly on another hard line and it kept rubbing a hole in it and leaking. The type of 12v power Constant vs Key-On will vary between different sensors.
The rest were just thrown away. In the P5 system, its simpler. I plan to document this as best I can with hopes to contribute to this thread. The computer dynamically switches between each resonant chamber to achieve the appropriate resonant frequency for the engine's rpm. I just happened to stumble upon this Thread. I like it, it was cheap, it should help with cooling, and you can see the turbo thru the vent so that's fun. An all steel crankshaft and connecting rods were topped with aluminum pistons, the engine capacity being reduced down to 2000cc limit by changing the length of the engine stroke.
I took the manifold off to replace the valve cover gaskets that started to leak. Source: long detailed build thread and condensed build thread. I noticed it would take a few seconds to build oil pressure after the engine started. I ended up getting brand new mazda mounts with the motor, they were in the car for a month before he was t boned. Since the old thread got deleted, Over the next couple weeks I will be trying to re-create the swap thread I had before. This effect optimizes volumetric efficiency over a given rpm range to provide maximum torque over the entire rpm range.
So, I figured I should finally do this as it is the most common question I get. If so I might as well crank on as much power as I can since it's already gonna be a wallet burner. I made a new more legitimate turbo replacement this time around to hopefully create a more accurate base map. Don't forget most of these engines have not run for quite some time and deposits will lossen up after the first few startups. The all alloy 60 degree V6 was also light and compact only 457cms so could be fitted well down in the chassis to improve the car's center of gravity.